How to Drink Tea As An Animist: What Is Hui Gan?
From Mandarin, Hui Gan (回甘) translates as “returning sweetness”. It’s the finish (much like what’s experienced in fine wines) that is both a sensation and a flavor that is left on the palate after Tea is consumed.
From Mandarin, Hui Gan (回甘) translates as “returning sweetness”. It’s the finish (much like what’s experienced in fine wines) that is both a sensation and a flavor that is left on the palate after Tea is consumed. With Teas with strong Hui Gan, the finish can be sensed beyond the mouth, and can spill over onto your entire body. In my animist work, I see Hui Gan less as a “finish” or aftertaste, and more as an afterglow, or simply how the specific Tea says until we meet again.
When the term afterglow is used in the context of sunlight and the atmosphere, it’s referring to an intense glow, often red, that lingers long after the sun has set (or prior to the sun rising), when all other twilight hues in the sky would have otherwise disappeared. Afterglow, in plant medicine milieus, refers to the desired psycho-emotional effects that hang around after the main effects have already subsided. These states of afterglow are often accompanied by feelings of clarity and serenity. Sexual afterglow, the enhanced contentedness that felt for hours following sexual intimacy, likely linked to the activation of dopamine and oxytocin, has been found to promote bonding between partners.
In my articles relating to animism, I’ve shared that animism is an extraordinary capacity to engage. From this animist context, Hui Gan are the long, drawn out goodbyes with a crush, dear lover or old friend (or all of the above). You’ve enjoyed your visit, and you don’t want to part just yet. You step forward for a parting embrace, and then think of three more things to chat about before you finally leave, delaying the inevitable. A yearning to stay together longer; maybe there’s something you really wanted to bring up but you don’t know how, and you’re waiting for the cue or sign to indicate the right moment. Fingers intertwine softly, loosely, there is a sense of relaxed intimacy as the skin of your hands touch, as your cheeks brush each other, the scent of musk or florals picked up by noses, the pores of your desire dilate or the relief of someone knowing you wholly. Goodbyes are not meant to be final, even though you know you will see them again, you both still want to stay. Tea leaves with a slow kiss before she departs, and you’re left with those returning feelings.
Chinese tea drinkers and tea enthusiasts worldwide highly treasure Hui Gan. Though not uniformly agreed on by tea connoisseurs, there is somewhat a general consensus of what Hui Gan is:
A combination of flavor, body sensation, and energetic feeling
A satisfying and comforting sweetness followed by an initial bitterness (for some Teas, there is no bitterness at all)
Hui Gan reflects the best qualities of the Tea’s initial flavor profile, coming back like a crest or wave, much like how a memory arrives
When we practice relating with Tea and take the time to slowly notice her, we may also behold specific tones of sweetness that is consistent with the Tea’s flavor profile. For instance, we may pick up notes of honey, molasses, dried figs, ripe apricots, tobacco, buttery cookies in the Hui Gan.
In my monthly Magick of Tea hybrid (live-stream and in-person at O5 Tea in Vancouver), we relate animistically with Tea in a culturally rooted way, while exploring an aspect of magical practice and/or the creative process. We also always directly experience Hui Gan, as I provide mini psychic readings for ticket holders. Hope to share Tea with you in one of the upcoming Magick of Tea gatherings (free for Homing Coven members!)
Lastly, looking for a Tea companion as you read my latest article? Try these two teas from O5 Tea (one puer, one oolong), known for their rich ‘gan’.
BAN PO LAO ZAI, 2010 NANNUO. A Puer that tastes like wild honey. Raw, intensively floral, mouth watering, with hint of smoke an long lasting finish. This tea takes you on a trip to the highlands of southern Yunnan.
SHAN LIN XI | LIGHTLY ROASTED SPRING 2023 OOLONG. A floral perfume and luscious texture, this Taiwanese oolong reminds us of those 'butter cookies' that your Grandma might have had in those blue tins that stored her sewing supplies. It is a beautiful choice if you're looking for a tea for dessert.